Description

Urea is an organic compound that occurs naturally in the surface layers of the skin as a component of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). In skincare, urea is synthesized in laboratories and used as a dermally active humectant, keratolytic agent, and skin-softening compound. It is chemically known as carbamide, with the molecular formula CO(NH2)2, and is highly water-soluble. Urea is a white, crystalline powder or granule in its raw form and is often incorporated into topical formulations such as creams, lotions, ointments, and serums at varying concentrations to serve different dermatological purposes.

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What sets urea apart from many other skincare ingredients is its dual-functionality: at lower concentrations (typically 2–10%), it acts primarily as a hydrating and barrier-repairing agent, while at higher concentrations (10–40%), it serves as an exfoliating and keratolytic compound, helping to dissolve the protein bonds between dead skin cells. Urea enhances skin permeability and allows for better absorption of other active ingredients, making it an effective adjunct in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. It is widely used to manage dry, scaly, and hyperkeratotic skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, ichthyosis, and keratosis pilaris. As a biocompatible molecule, urea is generally well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive and compromised skin, when properly formulated.